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Posts Tagged ‘albania

Battlefields

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(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

Albania is unique in that it is the only country in the world to have declared itself an Atheist state, ‘The Religion of Albania is Albanian-ism!’ was the slogan. All churches, mosques, were closed, turned into sports halls or storage warehouses, all religious worship declared illegal. In the 1960s, there was a concerted campaign to destroy ALL religious buildings and it was largely successful.

The buildings that survived (this picture being one of 8 churches that survived from the original 40 plus in Berat) did so as they were deemed to have historical and cultural significance rather than religious importance.

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

This picture is of the badly damaged interior walls of a Bektashi temple (Bektashism being a form of Sufi-ism), the exterior of this tiny temple bearing very few indications of being a place of worship and was indeed a store house for 40 years until the ban on religion ended in the early 90s.

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

So what fills a void, when you ban the worship of an unfathomable metaphysical presence? The oversized ego of equally unfathomable but rather more physically present Communist leader, in Albania’s case, Enver Hoxha. Apparently, on the death of Stalin, Hoxha gathered his citizens in Tirana’s central square, made them all kneel in respect and reverence and swear an oath of ‘eternal fidelity’ to their ‘beloved father’ Stalin. Presumably, the irony wasn’t lost on him…

As far as monuments of vanity go, this building, Hoxha’s Pyramid as it is called, is fairly modest. If you’ve ever had to scoop your jaw off the pavement as you take in the size and scale of Ceausescu’s Palace in Bucharest, you’ll know what I mean. Although, having said that, Enver Hoxha did have his name scrawled into a mountain range so wasn’t so modest after all.

I found the words of Shelley’s poem ‘Ozymandias’ (one of the few that I know off by heart) going round in my head as I stood in front of this building.

‘”My name is Ozymandias,King of Kings, Look on my works, ye might and despair”
Nothing besides remains, around the decay of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away’

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

Instead of lone and level sands, it’s ripped up paving stones and graffitied walls, Hoxha’s Pyramid left in ruins – physically and symbolically.

In the National History Museum, the wing which housed Albanian post-war Communist era exhibits has been closed, with no foreseeable plans to reopen.

It seems to me that you can no more eradicate a country’s religious and cultural heritage as you can its ideological past, however uncomfortable either might be in the current zeitgeist. You’re simply replacing one ruinous and bloody battlefield with another.

These pictures were my thoughts on this topic.

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Written by Spiller

November 6, 2012 at 9:59 pm

The Unknown Partisan

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(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

… with bird…

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October 31, 2012 at 9:36 pm

Kruje

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(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

 

On our last day in Albania, we travelled up to Kruje, about an hour from Tirana. It is the best (some say, only) place in Albania to buy souvenirs, apparently, and the minibus ride up there was quite fun.

We had to make our way to the Zog i Zi roundabout on the outskirts of Tirana (we managed to navigate our way around Tirana really well on foot… once we turned the map the right way round!), ask various people where the minibuses to Kruje went from, squeeze in along some very curious but very friendly locals in a battered old minibus, swing around some hairpin bends up the mountainside with quite a stoned, hungover (or possibly still drunk) looking driver; it took about an hour and cost about £1.30.

And the views were stunning. Perched high on a hill with a perfect view down the valley back towards the capital. The path up to the castle was lined with shops selling statues of Skanderburg, the National hero, (pic below) and a large selection of Albania-themed trinkets. I am my mother’s daughter and can’t resist a good browse round a gift shop – and when the gift shop is the size of a whole town, well what sort of heaven is that…

Pictures of the views will come later, but let’s get our priorities right people and start with the souvenirs!

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

Written by Spiller

October 29, 2012 at 10:11 pm

Albanian Portraits

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Some photos I took in Tirana. I do always try and ask permission (if appropriate) before taking someone’s portrait but in Albania this was problematic as a ‘Yes’ is expressed by shaking the head from side to side and ‘No’ by an emphatic nod (reversed by those who deal with tourists more frequently). I was never quite sure if I had permission or not, I just hoped that a lot of smiling on my part would help either way.

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

The gentleman sitting outside the Etham Bey mosque, Skanderburg Square, Tirana

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

Inside the Etham Bey mosque, Skanderburg Square, Tirana – the lovely man who put all the lights on so that we could see its beautifully painted interior walls.

(c) Jo Spiller, All Rights Reserved

One very impressive moustache – in front of a tyre shop, Tirana

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October 28, 2012 at 10:10 pm

Greetings from Albania

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End of Day 2 in Tirana and I discovered WIFI in the apartment we’re staying so decided to post a photo I took on my phone today of a painting in the National Art Gallery.

We arrived in Tirana on Sunday eve in a spectacular thunderstorm – one that challenged both the skills of the pilots as well as the fixed smiles of the flight attendants.

The front of the plane was taken up by an England football squad (the C team apparently), the back of the plane was slowly getting drunk on duty free vodka.

Yesterday we spent wandering the streets of Tirana mainly. The roads have hints of the chaos of places like Delhi and Cairo, there are street sellers on most corners selling the most amazing looking fruit and veg; pomegranates the size of melons, melons the size of footballs and the largest watermelons I’ve ever seen!

The city centre has a great outdoor cafe culture, it’s got some impressive communist era architecture and interesting monuments to its revolutionary past. It has a spectacular back drop of high mountains that makes the air feel fresh and mountainous despite the mass of cars on the roads.

Everybody we’ve met and spoken to has been very friendly and helpful if a little bemused that we’ve come to Albania for our holiday.

We’ve eaten the most amazing food, full of Italian and Greek influences; homemade chestnut tagliatelle, pistachio parfait, aubergines, peppers and tomatoes grown in sunshine and devine in flavour as a result. All washed down with home made wine and Raki.

Staggeringly good value too and just a two hour flight from home. How long will it be before the stag and hen juggernaut discover this place, I wonder.

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October 16, 2012 at 6:52 pm

Balkan Women

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There seems to be a long lineage of British women who have developed strong connections with the Balkan region over the years.  Recently, I’ve been mainly reading about women at the turn of the nineteenth century and the more that I read, the more fascinating the stories are.

First there is Edith Durham, Queen of the Highlands to the Albanians and Achilles Heel to the established Balkan experts of the pre-WW1 era. Considered outspoken and difficult, her foreign office file began by warning people off engaging her in conversation. But she was passionate, fearless and ultimately proven by history to be speaking sense.

Then there are the women of the First World War who travelled out to the front line as part of the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry  – I’m assuming that the acronym they would have had printed on their uniform is etymologically significant – Marvellous bunch, these FANYs, I’m sure!

Then there is Flora Sandes. A Yorkshire born woman who was the only British woman to enlist as a soldier in the First World War and travelled out to the Balkans with the British Red Cross. She ended up fighting with the Serbian army and rose through their military hierarchy – as a woman – to the rank of Captain. The only woman to be commissioned as an officer in the Serbian army.

How do we not know more about these people!

There is a lot more to discover here, I think, and so has begun one of my minor obsessions for 2012.

Written by Spiller

January 26, 2012 at 9:37 pm